Road Thoughts by Tom

"I hope the bus can make it back over these hills alright tomorrow," Mo said to me as we were winding through some hills in the middle of California on our way to the coast.

"What do you mean back? Doesn't this road take us all the way to the coast?" I asked. A couple hours earlier she had asked me my opinion on where we should look for a free camping site for the night, and when I chose the one only an hour away versus one two hours away, I didn't realize I was choosing one that may require some backtracking. I was a little frustrated. Mo has been doing a great job navigating and finding free camping sites for us, and I guess I should have asked more in-depths questions before answering her question, but I was getting a little tired of driving as we had left Sequoia National Park a few hours ago.

We passed through some state park whose main gate was open but the sign said all campsites were taken for the night. No problem for us as we would just be passing through and at our free site in less than half an hour. No problem until we got to the back side of the park and found the road gated off stopping our progress. UGHHHH! What to do now. We were out in the middle of nowhere. Hard to believe that being in California, but there was very little around. It had been a beautiful drive. After we left the mountains we traveled through valleys of fields growing as best as I could tell apples and other crops I really couldn't recognize. Then we were up in the hills again, now a lovely light shade of brown and the hills much tamer which was nice for Bam Bam whose brakes were pretty tired coming out of the Sierras.

Calmly we decided to head for the coast even though it was getting close to dark, we had no place to stay but fortunately still had plenty of gas. The kids didn't have a clue as to what was happening, as they had been plugged in watching Tom and Jerry cartoons for the afternoon. I would prefer that they take in the scenery around them a little more but we decided anytime we drive more than two hours they can watch movies. There have been a couple times the video player hasn't been able to get enough juice from the auxiliary battery and they handled the situation just fine. Quinn falling asleep and Maggie playing with a sticker book.

I think the kids are having more fun on this trip than they'll admit. Right now, they have a tendency to tell anyone that they are never allowed to watch television or play video games at home versus the fact that they have been to ten national parks seeing more in this three weeks than some people see in their lifetime. We sat down for dinner together at a restaurant in King's Canyon for pizza and beer after another long drive a few nights ago and asked the kids things they had seen or done. After Quinn said he remembered going to the bathroom, as potty humor is very prevalent, we challenged them to come up with twenty memories. The list went well past twenty, and I was impressed by some of the minor details they could remember about this trip.  Yes some of it was potty in nature, literally, as Quinn remembered urinating behind a large fallen tree near the top of Mist Falls in Yosemite, but he remembered!

They have also really enjoyed becoming Junior Rangers at nearly all the parks. At each park we pick up a packet for them to complete, according to their age, in order to earn a badge and learn more about a park and the nature around it. There have been times when it has been a struggle, as they can be too hot or tired to want to complete one, or we have to hustle in order to make a ranger talk. But they have been learning to be good stewards to our land. In King's Canyon, they had us tell a couple of young men to stop carving into a downed sequoia. The next day we saw some kid beating the Roosevelt sequoia  with a stick that we were about to stop when his mother finally noticed him before we stepped in. I've learned a few things about the nature around us as well. I'm sure they will remember more as their little sponges between their ears absorb everything.

We had hopes that we would be able to spend a little more time with them at the end of each day at camp doing some math work or having them read to us. One of my favorite memories was having Maggie read some Alice in Wonderland to me on the top bunk of Bam Bam while we camped outside of Mesa Verde. But we have been rolling into camp so late that there is only enough time to make camp, make dinner and clean up before it is time for bed. Either of us will still generally read to them, but then they aren't getting to sleep until almost ten some nights, then it is hard to get them going in the morning. They have taken over the bottom bunk after Maggie had fallen out of the top, and although we don't have head room, we actually have a little more space and more air flow on the top bunk. As we look to travel north along the coast, we think we are going to be able to find many more campsites, maybe even pay for a few, and can get to camp earlier in the afternoon.

From the middle of nowhere California, we continued our beautiful drive towards the setting sun, which unfortunately set before we hit the coast. We did find a campground in Carmel Valley. Kind of a crazy place as it was set on a steep hill and nearly impossible to find the sight we paid for. Although it was a little chilly in the morning, I still hit the pool with the kids, after all we did pay for it. Besides, we didn't have very far to go to get to Mo's cousin's place in Carmel by the Sea.

We found her cousin Colleen's place with no problem and were met by her significant other Steve who kindly welcomed in a group of strangers into his house. We are very thrilled to be here, getting some laundry done, sleeping on a bed, being a short walk from the beach and having good company.

I look forward to being here in the bay area for the weekend and possibly staying away from the crowds at the national parks. I knew the parks would be busy, but I never thought Disney like busy could be possible. Mo asked me if this is what John Muir had in mind originally as we darted through people while at Yosemite, with the occasional person lighting up their cigarette near a trail head.  King's Canyon was probably the least busiest but we didn't explore that too much as we only walked on trails that we could walk to, giving Bam Bam a rest and ourselves a rest from driving. I had beaten many of the low numbered crowds that morning by going on a run near the Grant sequoia, running across a mom and her two fawns more than any other person. We did avoid some crowds at Sequoia by going out when the weather was less than perfect and walking past the Sherman sequoia, the world's largest tree by volume, and seeing many more giants in the mist covered forest.

The best time I had avoiding the crowds was back at Zion on the Fourth of July. We had gotten in the night before and I was immediately turned off by the crowds. Tired of driving Mo found an RV park just outside the park, and she encouraged me to get up early and go on a hike by myself. So up at five and I walked into the park to catch a shuttle, somehow I walked past the visitor center and shuttle stop and had to turn around, so I had to catch the second shuttle leading to trail heads. Fortunately shuttles ran every fifteen minutes. I was heading to do Angel Falls Landing, a five and a half mile out and back up some really narrow ledges that we did NOT want to bring the kids up. I was a little bummed that much of the trail leading to the ledges was actually paved. Many switchbacks and some great scenery but I kept a fast pace. When the pavement stopped the chains began. Chains were bolted into the sand stone to help keep anyone steady and prevent most from falling to their doom. I met one woman who had turned back and I was a little uneasy and just had to focus on moving forward while not letting go of the chain. Much more frightening than going on Katahdin's Knife Edge but I made it to the top in about an hour. I took less than five minutes to enjoy the views into the canyon before heading back. Still kind of frightening coming down and generally people were very courteous in letting me pass. There were hundreds of people coming up the switchbacks and I couldn't imagine being on the ledges with that many people. I got back to the shuttle stop in an hour and there was just one couple on the bus back to the visitor center with me, as they had hiked only up to where the ledges had started. Back at the visitor center the line for the shuttle looked like a line at Disney for one of the most popular rides. I was so glad to have gotten in that incredible hike so early as I spent the rest of the day relaxing around the RV park.

I have gotten a little running in here and there. Colleen and Steve encouraged me to run at a local park yesterday afternoon. Point Lobos was only a ten minute drive away and I got in nearly eight miles along the Pacific coast. It was a joy to actually run again at sea level and I stopped frequently to take pictures or gaze at seals resting in or around the water.

It is nice to get a little alone time on these runs as it can be a challenge to parent 24/7. The kids do get along really well, there are times of course when they don't. It can actually be a little more challenging when they get along too well. They came up with a secret club of their own while at King's Canyon and some evil plan to get rid of us parents. Bad news for them, they are still going to be stuck with us for more than a month.

A quick look back in the rear view mirror has me seeing the Atlantic, the plains, the mountains, the fertile valleys and some rolling hills and looking forward to the Pacific. I look forward to reversing the order over the next month while being unsure of what lies just ahead of us.

I'll give more of a narrative sometime after I've had a few cups of coffee after an extra long drive last night to arrive in Carmel, California. For now, I'll put up some pictures of some of our adventures.

 Quinn practicing his swing on the east side of Yosemite.

 Talking a stroll around a lake in Yosemite.

On our way up Mist Falls, Yosemite.

 Looking into Yosemite Valley.

 Bam Bam and our resting spot for two nights in Kings Canyon.

 Maggie thinking up verses for a new song.

 There's actually room inside this sequoia trunk for more.

 'Hanging' around camp at Kings Canyon.

 Walking among the giants at Sequoia National Park.

It was a beautiful drive from the mountains to the sea in California.
Again, I'll get up more information later.

New update...finally!

Wow, it has been awhile and we have many adventures under our belt since last we posted.  I will give highlights to catch up.  Feel free just to skim.  I won't know the difference.

So last I wrote we were going for a last hike in Bryce Canyon hanging with the Hudus.  The scenery was amazing, but the kids renamed the Peekaboo trail...peekapoop trail because we followed very poop filled horses for our entire five miles. 

We headed to Grand Canyon North Rim.  I had found a free campsite right outside the park, but decided to check with the Forest Service people where I was shown a map where we could camp for free on the rim of the Grand Canyon with no one around.  I explained that when driving on rough roads the bus sounds like bolts are going to fly off and she assured me we could do it.  We felt like we had completely scored and the map looked quite clear.  Anyway, after an hour and a half and a Very harrowing navigating experience with prescribed forest fires and taking the bus through huge puddles, we did find our site at a really fabulous overlook. The Grand Canyon was right there...no fences, no people.  We stood there for a few moments and heard people drumming on another canyon point and proceeded to turn around and go camp right back at the original boring spot I had first found.  We were too freaked out about Quinn's desire to play baseball that close to the edge and being that far out and isolated In a 20 year old bus, and we didn't want to make the hour and a half ride in the morning.

On the way to the park in the morning, we saw buffalo...thought we would have to wait for more northern environs.  At the park, We hiked a little less than mile into the Grand Canyon, and we encountered MORE poop, mule this time, much to the kids chagrin.  We hiked about three miles around the edge as well and Tom and I both feel like we need to go back and hike the canyon.  I want to go across and Tom wants to go across and back...next trip.  

Because we don't plan this trip ahead, we wound up arriving at Zion National Park on Friday, July 3rd.  This happens to be the busiest of Utah's parks.  We were hungry and not at all certain we would be able to find a camping spot.  We debated not even going and cruising right through, but we found a brew pub and after a beer and food, we were in much better states of mind.  An RV park had a spot available a half mile from the Zion visitor center and we jumped on it.  RV parks now feel very luxurious because our fridge only works if we are plugged in.  It is the little things. Tom got up early and did the Angel Falls Landing trail which he said made Katahdin's knife edge look pretty safe.  The skies were overcast all day which really kept the temps pretty comfortable.  I was able to go and do an overlook trail and I was able to run much of it with only minimal rib discomfort...Whoohoo.  The kids swam a ton and made friends with sisters and played with them most of the day.  We had s'mores with their family for the fourth and had a really nice visit.  The girls exchanged addresses to be pen pals and the parents offered a spare room outside of Vegas if we come back that way.  

Watching the Women's World Cup was very important to Tom and the kids and on looking at the map, it seemed that the only place we could guarantee this, was Vegas and this happened to coincide with our friends the Mulligans stay there.  Maggie stepped out of the bus in the Ex calibur  parking lot and said, "I miss Maine!"  Anyway, I had done a ton of research about kid activities in Vegas and thought we would have fun.  On the map it all looks so close and we can walk...usually...Vegas is a complete maze!!!  And felt a bit like a hell we couldn't get out of or find what we want...at least we had lovely company!  Maggie's flip flop broke so I carried her around while Tom and Patrick went to get shoes out of the bus, but we ended up seeing the Bellagio Fountain four times because they got lost in the maze on their way to meet us.  None of my research bore fruit, but we finally found Margaritaville to watch the game and get out of the crowds.  Thank goodness for a fabulous game, a strong margarita, and great company.  

As we headed north into Nevada, we watched these crazy lightning storms all around us. Pretty amazing, and thankfully we never experienced the brunt.  We camped near the highway right next to a beautiful pond that we didn't see until the morning.  

The next morning held many firsts- first vomit (Quinn car sickness), kids first time to California, first time we were inspected for what we were bringing into the state, first gas over four dollars a gallon.  We found a beautiful campsite on a lake just before the Yosemite entrance which was crazy backed up with traffic.  Quinn and I skipped stones, Tom and Quinn played baseball, Maggie played by herself happily and did some math.  I got to read some.  We had an early dinner and headed into the park.  We hiked around Tenaya lake and took in the granite rocks.  On our drive back to our campsite we got stuck in stand still traffic.  There had been a number of thunderstorms and A large rockslide was blocking the road outside the park.  Everyone was walking around outside their cars conferring on how long this was going to take.  When the ambulance went through, we decided that we would bail on our lovely campsite and head to the eastern side of the park.  The drive and ensuing sunset were Spectacular, but as it grew darker, and I could make out the several thousand feet drop offs to our right, the adrenaline was pumping.  The kids were so tired and we ended up just popping the top on a pullout to the side of the road across from a hotel.  The kids kept saying, "Why can't we just stay there?"  I explained that when we decide to splurge on a hotel, we will check in early and check out late...not arrive at ten o'clock only to get up and hike very early to beat the crowds.  We roused the kids early and hiked five miles of the Mist Trail.  They did so great!  The waterfalls and stairs were both marvels.

 The crowds and the kid's Junior Ranger tasks were leaving Tom a bit crabby.  We decided to beat feet to Kings Canyon.  During that drive, Quinn was in meltdown mode and Tom and I agreed we needed a break from our traveling.  We arrived at Kings Canyon National Park and asked for the closest campground with room...they all had room.  We had left the crowds behind!  We found a great sight.  I went exploring and only a trail away was a restaurant with beer and pizza!  The next day was a driving free day.  We walked to see the majestic sequoias, (Tom likened this to walking through a living, breathing cathedral), got fresh food, played ball, laid on our hammock.  I even got a three minute shower!  The day felt very luxurious.  

This morning we woke to thunderstorms and temps in the 40's.  My Maine packing of warm clothes finally paid off.  We drove to Sequoia National Park, checked out many more trees.  I wimped out about driving the bus through one.  We walked up 339 steps to Moro Rock.  The kids seem to hike much faster on steps than plain old trail.  There was another harrowing mountain road drive.  We are still unable to put the bus on lower gears and have to be very careful of overheating our breaks.  

Traveling with the Internet is truly incredible...a far cry from all of my other cross country treks.  I am able to plug in best restaurants in Lemoore, CA and find an amazing Taqueria.  We stopped and are now headed to camp in the Arroyo Seco for the night wherever that is...free camping near the coast of Cali!!!  Yikes, drove a long way for a road closure.  The glory of traveling without a plan...now at a site perched on the side of a mountain....very scary, hope it will be less so tomorrow and we even paid for this one!

We will be hanging with our cousin Colleen in Carmel tomorrow!!!

More Utah National Parks!

We are currently hunkered down all cozy in the bus enjoying listening to thunder, playing Uno and writing in the blog.  This is our second night in such a majestic spot with mountain views and no one around for free.  Tom and I woke to coyotes howling with puppy howls as well last night.

On Monday we rented a car while Bambam had some work on the brakes which was successful and not so successful work on the lower gears, but she has been driving fine and we are doing without shifting her into the lower gears.  Anyway, our rented Toyota Camry with over 200,000 miles did well driving up to explore Canyonlands and we enjoyed about ten degrees cooler temps.  We hiked A Whale and a rim hike.  The kids have been really pretty amazing hikers, but the vistas are completely lost on them.  Completely unimpressed and much more interested in the micro parts of the trip...rock scrambling, hunting for lizards, watching Ravens, crawling through caves, etc.  I have taken to telling them they must act excited at viewpoints for our sake.  We picked up the bus and drove to another gorgeous free site outside of Goblin Valley State Park.  I have learned that what we are doing is called disperse camping...I love it!  I don't think I will ever quite enjoy a filled up campground again.

Goblin Valley State Park has just some of the weirdest rock structures I have ever seen.  We played some hide and seek and climbed all over.  The only unfortunate part is while in Indy I managed to walk into a parking meter which for most would not be such a big problem, but with my pace and the way it jutted out has left me with bruised or cracked ribs.  They are getting better and I have gone on about three runs before the kids get up, but that day my ribs really felt awful after the run so we didn't stick around or do the slot canyon I had picked in the area.  I don't see a slot in our future for this trip.

We hiked the Queens garden/Navajo loop trail this morning as well as the rim trail at Bryce Canyon.  The trail work is phenomenal so that people can enjoy such a spectacular area.  We plan to do a longer harder (more elevation gain/loss) trail tomorrow morning.  We haven't been good with consistent eating and so the kids have been getting quite hungry/emotional around lunch time.  Today they were on a rant about how deprived they are with no Kindles, video games, movies AND we are the only parents in their whole grades that make them do chores like clearing the table and cleaning their rooms once a week.  I said you don't have to do any chores on this trip and Maggie said, "Yeah, but we have to hike."  This is true we make them hike and I was thinking today how it would be nice at times if there were babysitting services at National Parks like on cruise ships so Tom and I could go do a few of the tougher trails at our own pace, but really they have been awesome as long as remember to feed them.

Can't believe it is July.  I have nicely lost track of time...off to the north rim of the Grand Canyon tomorrow.

Archn't Ya Glad You Read this Post

I told Maggie sometime back in February or March that someday she would stop saying that she wishes it was summer and would prefer winter. Well today became that day as we were getting close to finishing a loop trail in the Northern section of Arches National Park. Temps were creeping up into the nineties and it was only going to be getting hotter, so it was a good thing we were almost done with the seven miles when Maggie started wishing it was winter.

We arrived in Moab, Utah yesterday afternoon and Mo found us a free campsite just outside of town. Absolutely no ammenities, other than the price or the view. It was stiffling hot as we got out of the bus, so we did an early dinner in Moab and then headed into the park. We checked out some great easy to get to viewpoints. Great light on the rocks and a better temperature than a few hours earlier.

Off to bed early, well kind of early, in order to get an early start to the next day. Quinn and I slept in the tent and were probably much cooler than the ladies in the bus. Up at five and the kids were great about getting ready. We did alright getting ready as well, until Quinn pointed out to us that we forgot to put the top down on the bus, while we were driving.  Luckily we hadn't gone very far.

Into the park before rangers were at the entrance, we have a park pass anyway but fun to feel like you're breaking the law. The ride in was amazing, as morning colors hit the rocks. We were on the trail about 6:40, ready for seven hot miles. Mo' had read temps were forecasted to be over one hundred, so we wanted to crank out as many miles early as possible. That meant passing on a couple arches on a sidetrail, but ones we would come across again.

We followed the sign for the Primative Trail, which also stated it was 'difficult'. Mo and I both kind of laughed at it after a little while as the only difficult part seemed to be keeping sand out of our shoes, which was impossible. The kids got a big kick out of seeing so many bunny rabbits. Mo even spotted a deer for the kids to view as well. The difficult parts of the trail were to come later.

It took sometime before we got to our first arch, actually there was one earlier but it was too easy to get to to count I guess. We had to do some rock scrambling a bit, and the kids really did wonderful. Perhaps a little too wonderful as they had Mo a little frightened at times. A side trail led us to Private Arch, and it was worth the extra effort. I can't really describe too well these arches, especially when you look directly at one but then can also walk through it to get an even better perspective. I hope some of these photos will inspire you to check them out yourselves.

A bonus of taking off so early besides beating the heat was also beating the crowds. I had asked at the main gate yesterday if any campsites would be available for Sunday, and the woman said they were booked until August. Well, at least we had most of the trail to ourselves that morning. Also, we were hiking counter clockwise when most others would go the other direction. There were a few people around the Double O Arch, but these were just about the only we had seen that morning in nearly three miles.

We did pass on one side trail to Dark Angel Arch, as it was getting hot and this trail was longer than the Private Arch trail. More scrambling but now the kids were starting to show signs of being tired. Two more arches had side trails and so with the kids tired, we split them up as I took Maggie and Mo took Quinn. Maggie and I took a little longer at the arches, Partition and Navajo, while Quinn looked more for lizards with Mo than really checking out the arches.

Besides the arches being amazing, it was incredible to walk up on some of the rocks that had been pushed up and split by ancient salt deposits. Yes, I did pay attention to the film we watched at the visitors center the day before. The kids had also paid attention and were excited about earning their Junior Ranger badges like they had earned just the day before at Mesa Verde National Park. That may have been the one things keeping Maggie going as were now on the trail for four hours. We had some tricky downs off some of the rock faces, but the kids were like little mountain goats, except for the fact they didn't get a great nights sleep.

Just past the first arch we had seen that morning, Landscape Arch, we were heading back to the bus. Except I wanted to go see the two arches we had passed on in the morning. We compromised a little as Mo took the kids to one, who didn't want to see anymore and just wanted to get back to the bus, while I checked out both arches. Glad I did them but there were the least exciting of them all.

So now what to do as it was probably somewhere close to a hundred degrees and your campsite is sitting in the wide open space of treeless Utah? That's right, pony up some money for a spot in a RV park that has shade, WIFI, laundry, showers and the best part a pool. Kids had a blast playing in the pool for a couple hours and Mo and I both cooled off as well. So glad for the early start in order to be chillin' by the pool instead of sweating buckets out on the trail.

Originally we thought it would be a good idea to head back to the park for a small hike near sunset. After dinner we loaded up Bam Bam with sights set on viewing Delicate Arch, which is the arch you'll see on most Utah paraphanalia. The kids were pretty spent now after eight, so Mo let me scurry on ahead to check out the arch about a mile away while they checked on some petroglyphs.  I found lots of people waiting for the sunset to hit the arch just right. I thought the light was decent enough and wanted to get back to the family, so I didn't wait with the masses.

The trail back was lots of fun, as I broke into a run for much of it. I must have seemed quite abnormal to most as I ran past them in long hiking pants and a button down oxford while wearing a daypack. Yah, I can guess I can see why that may look strange. Anyway, it still is amazing to see people wearing flip-flops and other items that I would say do not belong on a trail. But we are among the masses of America out here. I generally have not minded the crowds on this trip. I guess it is because I am out here with my family. I spend a lot of time on trails with myself, and enjoy that solitude when I can get it. I miss my family more when I am surrounded by people, when I would rather be surrounded by them. Now I have them close to me all summer long. It's been a great one thus far. Let's keep it that way.

Almost out of Colorado

We left Maine just a little over a week ago and that is unbelievable as we have seen so much.  Garden of the Gods was just beautiful and the kids loved climbing on large red rocks.  It was very crowded especially compared to Roxborough State Park in Littleton, Co which had a similar landscape.  I am learning that I have a touch of PTSD when it comes to hearing thunder. I think it goes to my AT days, but I kind of freak out and both days I rushed us through lovely hikes only to have storms blow by.  Tom is trying to be patient and I am trying not to let my anxiety show.  

We made it to Great Sand Dunes National Park in time to go play on the dunes with our rented sled.  Quinn took a big tumble doing a really steep dune and I did only a mild slant...not that fun.  We camped overlooking the park...spectacular.

We spent the following morning hiking 699 feet to the top of the highest Dune.  At the apex Maggie said with incredulity, "We had to hike all the way up here just to look around???"  Yes we did, because those dunes were way to steep and long to sled.  We ran down the dunes.  mags and Quinn did have a spectacular wreck and Tom and I are still thankful that no head injuries or broken bones occurred.  Super proud that they continued to sled.  They also got to play in the wide stream which was quite comfortable at that point compared to the early morning crossing that was so painful that Quinn tried to quit half way.  A great time was had which one could tell by the amount of sand that fell out of bathing suits.

The bus is going to get checked out in Moab on Monday.  Going up and over Wolf Creek Pass at over 130000 feet was hard for Bam Bam.  We might have been able to be out biked.  Bam Bam will no longer go to the lower gears past drive.  I found a mechanic that knows buses and who also rents cars if needed.

We stopped and had a snack in Durango.  This was a town that we frequented regularly when I lived on the Navajo Rez and Durango has really gone upscale in the last twenty years...it felt like a smaller version of Aspen.  Found a free camping spot right across from Mesa Verde.  Love free camping, but this does mean that we are just dirty.

This morning we hiked into a self guided and tour guided cliff houses in Mesa Verde.  The kids loved climbing 32 foot ladders and crawling through a tunnel.  Very cool.  When I went there when I was twenty-two, the heat was so bad Erin and I just drove around and ran to overlooks.  I am glad to have been able to have a more informational and adventurous visit this time.  

On to Moab...peace and love to all.

Colorado

 My mom is concerned that we are not posting enough.  Part of the problem is that Tom and I are the antithesis of technologically savvy.  We are still trying to figure out our photo posting.  

Anyway, so far much of my joy with this experience is reuniting with friends and family.  We had a great dinner with my aunt, uncle and cousin.  They were the most gracious hosts and Maggie and Quinn gorged themselves on all sorts of delicious snacks. I got to go out last night at 9 o'clock which is just crazy and have a beer with Naomi Paradise which was absolutely lovely.

I will stop now and help Tom navigate to Garden of the Gods.  Then we are off to rent a sled for the Great Sand Dune Natl Park...best to all.